Separate all pattern pieces. Copy the front pocket, the cargo pocket as well as the back patch pocket. Copy the side pocket pieces and join them together. Slash and spread the pockets for the V-box pleats as illustrated. Fold the pleats to equalize the seam lines. The back patch pocket consists of two pocket pieces. Slash and spread 1 cm for each pintuck on the front and back pattern. Fold the pintucks to equalize the seam lines. Copy the tool strap piece, slash and spread around double the strap depth for each cutting line. Mirror the waistband and gather with elastic to 1/2 the waist girth. Mark gathers. Blend all seam lines. Mark the grainlines.
I am busy studying a brand which is now for years in South Africa. They have clothing stores all over the country and have a very strong brand.
I had a look at the website and find indications that it is militaristic, but I need to be careful, because I am not sure if they associate themselves with the Soviet Union, if you look at the military side of the Soviet Union you will find a lot of camouflage clothing, wings that the pilots use on their uniforms.
So what I did was, to start playing with the idea, of creating, or designing my own fabric and fashion line for this specific brand. Our main theme is camo, and I would like to use these ideas for a clothing company like Soviet. Here is a link to their website and have a look. https://sovietdenim.com/
When I start to design I look first for elements that I can use for my study. I try to get so many ideas and information as I can to find what I think someone or me will like. When you look at the army soldier drawing you see camo, and this image was of soldiers in 1949. There are a few things that catch my eyes and the first one is the hat, with the piece of fabric around his ears, this is a bit too hot for South Africa. It can work if you use a not-to-warm fabric, but in areas like the Western Cape and Johannesburg, it can be very useful in the mornings when you are on your way to the gym or to work in winter. The next thing that I am looking at is the collar, it looks if you can design a lot around with that specif kind of collar. The bags around his chest is very interesting, and you can stitch fabric around on your shirt so that it looks like bags.
One thing I learned at a very early beginning of my career is that if you touch politics and religion you immediately touch the art. These are three components that change in seconds and have a huge effect on a large scale on society.
I am studying now the Soviet Union war designs, I came across one word which is Constructivism art, a movement that started in 1922 by Aleksei Gan an artist. In his manifesto, he started with “UNCOMPROMISING WAR ON ART”.
During Russia’s post-Revolution transition, artists found their role in creating practical and industrial art to support the new Soviet state. In Constructivism, art was no longer for hedonistic pleasure but served a purpose within a fresh Communist society. Constructivist art began as a guiding light for the Russian people, carrying the hopes of many for a better life.
For some, the goal behind this new method of artistic creation was a new modern way of expressing the dynamism of life in the modern, industrial world.
Constructivist art has a fondness for geometric forms, sparse composition, and industrial materials. Rulers and compasses could create simple forms, reflecting the decomposition of art and challenging established traditions. Constructivist artists used glass, wood, and metal in their constructions.
I am back at the SovietDenim brand in South Africa, if you look at the tornado’s backfire drawings, you will see that that specific element is been used by www.SovietDenim.com just flipped. Now I look at the time when this poster was being made and that was during 1922 -1927 in the time of constructivist art a movement which was designed by Aleksei Gan an artist. This poster you will see is been released in the USSR during Lenin’s “New Economic Policy”.
Rember this is all my own conclusions, I do not work for the company, I would like to design for them a clothing line with fabrics and clothes. The only contact I have with them is on Twitter.
As a South Africa designer, I ask myself, is this brand suitable for South Africa? We do not live in the USSR. The thing I wonder now is who created this brand. Was it a South African or a Russian, is the person or people who created the brand capitalists or communists. I mention in the blog that a good designer can understand his client in 5min. He needs to know exactly what the client wants. The next thing I said was, and that is also important is I worked 22 years for a boss and I gave him what he wants, that was my job. My job was not to study the clients that were his job. So what exactly is my job here? To design and to understand the trend. I also need to understand his idea and put it into a fashion design for his clothing line, and I need to have a deep insight into the brand of the business.
Below is the Sovietdenim Logo in South Africa.
What I did was my job, I have now clarity and can have enough confidence to walk in and go and see them. I now have an idea of where they come from. As a South African, I also understand their market. That is easy to understand that, by just visiting their website.
Please see below more designs of the constructivist art.
I can’t sleep tonight so I stood up and start to see what I can find to do. It is very hot so it is difficult to sleep. I struggle to put the elastic into my shorts, but Anton said he will help me to do that, he is better than me, I learn from him. So it takes me more time and more effort to finish a piece of work as he does, but I work hard and I need to focus more.
I found these three male images on the net to help me to do my design. This is a very basic male figure drawing, with color and the correct skills it will be possible for me to give these figures nice designs. It comes to one point, that is to do it, and to work hard, actually two points.
I redraw the photostat which I have on a normal A4 paper and called it Master 1a. The reason for that is that I have still had two other drawings which I consider using.
I see a lot of Fashion Designers use the same figure drawing over and over in their designs, all that changes is the garments. I think most of the time you think of continuity which gives the design work, a very professional look. It won’t distract you if you have the same figure over and over. If you have too many different figures it gets too busy and it can distract the viewer who is looking at the designs.
I have now three master designs, and I called them Master 1a, Mater 1b, and Master 1c. I will at the end choose one of the designs for my male camouflage line. Then I will work on that, if I get a better sketch of a male figure I am going to use that one instead.
I actually preferred Master design 1a, because the figure looks straight in the eyes of the viewer, it is strong and for me, it shows stability. Master 1b and Master 1c are the same figure the one without clothes and the other one with clothes. I thought this figure will not work because the head is tilled and it is too busy and I see too many emotions in this sketch. The way he walks is different from Master 1a. I like Master 1b and Master 1c the most because it is different and the figure looks alive and it looks like if he is moving forward. So I think for what I want to use it for it can work. I now understand the importance of the choice of your figure drawing, and what I will look for in the future when I am going to draw figures. I think I will use a specific figure for jackets, a different one for shorts and a different one for trousers and shirts. I will continue to look for something that will work.
Now I think of maybe using a very artist drawing which shows a different angle of the figure, that can work, but I rather say that you need now to be very careful if you like to do that.
What I did was that I redraw the three master designs in my Portfolio which I will keep basically forever, it is part of my recording of how did I start to find my ideas and this is the beginning of LAVI’s Fashion designs. I put all the master designs on one paper because I can save space and I don’t need one image on an A2 page, I easily fit three images (the master designs) on the A2 paper/portfolio. When you turn the paper on the other side, I left it blank so that I can put it underneath the light box and I can easily redraw it again. So the basic master design will always stay the same.
The image above is the photostats that I work from. I also put it in my portfolio so that I can always look at it again, and keep it for my recoding, where I started with the idea.
This A4 pencil sketches I redraw from the photostats and it is actually my master but, I don’t want to just glue it in the portfolio and redraw it from that, instead, I redraw it on an official page of my portfolio and then I keep the backside of the page open so that I can easily redraw the figures from the Master in the portfolio.
Tonight we were watching Dynasty on Netflix and we find this couple talking with each other. Anton and I were discussing this color match of each other and how the dress fit with the camouflage t-shirt. The jewelry he wears with it looks army and he also had bands around his arms.
If you design for a couple you don’t have to give her camouflage, you can dress her in a plain dress and him in solid camouflage.
Dynasty: Season 1, Episode 3
Fallon fights for the right to use the family name with her new business venture. Cristal faces a critical choice between her new family and her old one, and the Carringtons dress in their best costumes for a themed charity gala.Show: DynastyAir date: 25 October 2017
The fashion business is about designing, manufacturing, and selling different kinds of clothes. This business revolves around creativeness, uniqueness, efficiency. A very few words to describe what fashion is about. It is a very competitive business but it is a lot of fun.
Today I worked hard, was up early, had coffee and make my own bed, and started working on shorts for the camo line. I work much faster and still struggle with the elastic of shorts. That will sort itself out, Anton my business partner said he will help me with that.
Soviet Jeans in South Africa message me on Twitter today, I was very happy about that and I dream to design for them, we will see, maybe they will willing to have a look at our ideas. Relationship, quality, good work, hard work, will show the road.
This is how you start knowing people. You have to interact with people in the industry where you are in. It is important to know you, clients, understand them and they must know you, by using social media, your blog/website, or in person. Today with technology life is very fast and a lot of people react to WhatsApps, emails, and voice messages.
I am now just looking for ideas, this is a collection of images which I got from the internet, some of them are it the colors which I am looking at and some of them it is the design or kind of clothing they designed or made with camo.
What I like about these camo shorts is the design and the bright color usage with the butterflies. It looks interesting and very playful. This is a nice design for fabrics. If it was a jacket I would like to bead hand embroidered the butterflies. This will give a bling and makes it more attractive.
If I could make this gym suit I would use lycra because it sits tide on the body and the lycra will also be stretched around the body.
I found this camo sculpture on the net which is for sale, at an online art shop. I was thinking if we make a mannequin I would like to do it in paper mache, this will give a very modern look and I like the way he stands, the colors are very interesting.
The four images on top are jeans, and I don’t see any camo jean fabric in the fabric stores. I like the patched ones. It breaks a bit of the camo and makes the jean more colorful. I would not stitch it by hand but rather with the machine. There are bling around the pockets which makes it very nice, but I think it will be difficult to wash it.
These shorts above is very much the same shorts we make. The fabric is very nice and the print is working very strong for the camo look and feel. It is difficult to get this kind of fabrics in South Africa. The best way is to design and print your own fabric and I think polyester will work the best for these shorts.
This camo design is very much the Andy Warhol type of style. It is bright colors and the designer uses purple, green, and orange and breaks away from the traditional camo design and color.
This painting is camo, I think what makes this painting camo is the hair which is in a camo shape. It is very hidden and the black is very dark for camo.
This is part of my portfolio, I collect business cards and put it in my portfolio,