Sewing Pockets – Camouflage Line

Today I am going to try a new way to sew pockets, it will look different from the pockets I sew now on my pants and I make use of a video clip which I looked over and over to see how they exactly do it. Now I can do it on my own. They included in the first part of the video another way which I am going to focus now on.

First I am going to draw a pattern out of an A4 typing paper.

I made this pocket, it is not 100% but I have almost the idea, I will still work on it till have it 100%. This will take a while because this pocket is more difficult than the one that I working on now, this will be the second pocket in the Youtube video.


I am busy watching this series “You” which is on Netflix. I followed the series a year or two back and enjoy it, I don’t really like murder stories but it is all to watch on Netflix tonight while I am working. I look after Anton, he feels a bit better but will go to the hospital tomorrow to get a test. My lovely doctor Skye Scott in Johannesburg send me a reference to go and also have a test, but she said if I am not feeling sick I don’t need to go. She has a baby daughter Isla is her name. I am with Doctor Skye now for almost 6 years, I met her when I lived in Morningside Sandton. I worked there for Voxtelecoms as an in-house designer. I was with the company from September 2003 till November 2015. I left one day on the 19 November 2015 around 3: 40 PM. I will never forget that day. I remember I walked into the office and there was nobody, only me. Normally I had five colleagues with me in the office. I went and sat on my chair and made a phone call to Pierre, cleaned my table and took my computer and left. Without saying goodbye. I send an email the next morning around two o’clock to tell my manager that I am not going to come to work on Friday. I did not get a reply from Blanca, the manager. That was the end of my career at Voxtelecom and never went back.



Youtube Video Watched:

How To Sew Inseam Pockets | Sewing Techniques For Beginners | Thuy Sewing

Fashion vs AI (Robots) – Camouflage Line

The questions are already asked if robots will be replaced by fashion designers. That is a very interesting question. Can a robot create and be more creative and do that stitches like a person or a human which they normally refer to when they talk about robots and earthlings.

After a vote people say there is about a 3% chance that this career as a fashion designer will be fully automated by robots. It can be that in the next two decades a lot of fashion designers can be replaced by robots, but in my opinion, a person can be more creative and we as humans have the ability to be more intelligent as a robot, so our work has to improve and we need to understand what the robots can deliver to deliver better or more a valuable product.

If you look at hand designs it is been replaced by many software programs like CAD. It makes it easier to design, I love to draw and my knowledge of computer software programs is of 23 years of work experience. I must say I enjoy creating with a pencil and using a brush and paper to paint. It is different, and this is a skill you always have to develop and practice. It does not matter if you work on software on a computer you still need to understand the basics of drawing. Computers will help you to work faster to design because I feel fashion is very fast, faster as a graphic designer job. You have hard deadlines and where graphic designers just do the design and do not really worry about the printing of the artwork, it is all done by someone else. Where a fashion designer has to design, looking for the right fabrics, have to work to get the garment done. He is in the middle of the whole process. The work is harder and the deadlines tighter.

Trends are the keyword by fashion, and the question is will the robots or AI understand trends like humans, will they be able to visit fashion shows and decide which garment people will wear. There will be always something new in fashion and that will determine what the people like and want to wear. I think Anna Wintour will die immediately if she is replaced by a robot at Vogue.

Source:

https://willrobotstakemyjob.com/fashion-designers


Youtube Video Watched – My favorite ice skaters.

Vanessa James Morgan Cipres SP 2017 World Team Tokyo

Short Trousers – Camouflage Line

Today we went to a clinic to get us tested for Covid, it cost a huge amount of money so we leave and need to go to a specialist to give us a reference to get tested by the medical aid. I also don’t feel well, a little fewer but not that bad.

Anton and I are in the house and put us now under quarantine to keep us in the house. It is summer and it is hot, to be sick in this climate is not nice.

Today I am looking at short trousers. What is interesting is that everything which was made has a small history, for me, it is important to know that to get not only ideas but to understand things like, why did men start wearing short trousers, which countries, and what role does climate play on wearing clothing. For instance, the military and policemen wear short trousers in the hot place’s in the UK the children or boys wear them in school and when they are older they start wearing long trousers, normally when they reach puberty.

In different countries the people have different names for short trousers for example in India it is called half pants, in Australia, it is called stubbies and in the UK it is referred to as athletic shorts, sports shorts.


Knickerbockers or Knickers

These pants are called knickerbockers or knickers and were baggy and normally gathered at the knee and were tightened by a buckle or button.

It was worn by men during the 19th century and also became fashionable under women. This garment was usually worn as sportswear under golfers and for women cyclists.

 Designer unknown (American). Black knickerbockers, ca. 1900. Cotton. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1983.44.4. The Jacqueline Loewe Fowler Costume Collection, Gift of Jacqueline Loewe Fowler, 1983. Source: The Met

The Berg Dictionary of History of fashion design defines knickers as follows:

“A loose form of breeches of tweed, etc., fastening with a band below the knee; introduced at first for the voluntary militia, and then used by civilians for country pursuits; “cut three inches wider in the leg and two inches longer than ordinary breeches” (1871, The Tailor & Cutter). Usually worn with a Norfolk or other type of sports jacket for golf, etc. The name derived from the fictional Dutch founders of New York as depicted by Washington Irving in his History of New York by Dietrick Knickerbocker (1808).”

“Some 19th-century women wore ‘bloomers’ or knickerbockers for cycling – like this woman in Christchurch in 1896. But this attire sometimes attracted abuse from onlookers, as members of the city’s Atalanta Cycle Club found. They decided to revert to skirts in 1893, but later relaxed the rule as people got more accustomed to seeing women in trousers on bikes.”

Source:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shorts
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/knickerbockers/

Pattern for a Shorts – Camouflage Line

Today I was starting with the questions about how to do the pattern works, the shorts that I am working on. I could not understand how to do long sleeves pants. After a discussion with Anton, he explains to me how it works. After that, I could understand and almost do the knee pants and long sleeve pants.

I actually did a quick drawing on a small scale on typing paper just to get the idea, cut it out and then cut it out on a piece of fabric. After that, I sew it together and made a small little short.

I made a mistake on the date on all the artworks and realized tonight it is today the 3rd and not the 4th.


I started playing with two different fabrics. I create a knee pants to see how to work with two different fabrics. This is the idea which I have for the design which I made a few days ago. Two or three different fabrics.


I started working in 1989 August for the department education and training and work as a storeman in the department, later promoted to a clerk. The department of education was the department for the black schools during apartheid.

I met a wonderful lady Jo-Ann and she was a secretary for one of the directors, married and beautiful. She always phoned me and we had wonderful conversations. I never in all the time that I worked for the department of education and training once wonder if this smart lady made a move on me. She was too lovely to do that. She had a very sad life with her dad which was permanently at the hotel and drinking and was also an alcoholic. Her parents were divorced and she said to me one-day “gown ups make children adults. All these years I still remember that. In the beginning, it did not make any sense to me but later I realized that the more I live the life that it is true.

All these years I still thinking of her, I remember she was blond and very ladylike, a little overweight but I loved her. I really hope with my heart she is fine.

Anton is sick and we think he might be Covid positive. We brought today’s medication and we both are going for a Covid test to see what is going on and if we need to get the necessary medication and have to self-isolate. He went to bed early before elven. I am worried my uncle and my stepdad died of Covid in the last few months. I went for the vaccination but my mother refused to go, and my stepdad also refused to go for the vaccination.


After working with a small hand drawing of a pattern I now understand how a pattern works with shorts and long sleeve pants. What I struggle with was the sewing work between the legs, but after Anton explain it to me I have a better idea of how it works. It will not be easy when I started with complicated clothing, but as I understand the basics stays the same.

When I make a more complex garment for a man or a woman I can make a miniature sample of it, or just the basics to see and get an idea of how it will look. I will not make it so small like the samples which I made below a little bit bigger to understand where the problems might be and I will do it on not expensive fabrics.


Movie Watched:

Compulsion (2016)

After a fight with her boyfriend, a successful female erotic novelist on a book tour of Europe joins her ex and his female friend, with whom she falls madly in love, for a party at a castle owned by a dangerous cult.


To Riaan to you,

I had a dream so clear
With you in it

I remember the dark grey hair and the darkest eyes
I still remember you in my dream which was a nightmare

I don’t know how I feel about you after the 12 years when you
leave without a word or a goodbye.

I met someone new, sometimes I see your eyes, your mouth the expression on his face
When I was with you.

I will never stop missing you
I lost you but got someone new…

Karl Lagerfeld – Camouflage Line







Youtube Video Watched.


Today I watched a documentary by Karl Lagerfeld, who died in 2019 was a very famous fashion designer.

What interests me in this man, is that they show him a few times and said he always was drawing. I think that was a way for him to escape. This was part of how he relaxed and think, which I do when I feel like drawing is to think and to escape from everything.

If you look at this photo he is the boy who is sitting with his cross legs, he is the only boy which was sitting in that position. I get a laugh about it, it shows he was very different and the teachers who taught him in school said he was always different and dress differently.


Today I was watching a youtube video and saw a fashion designer which took old designs and revamp them. I was thinking to do it with the military uniforms or wear which they wear throughout of the years.


What I like of this man’s cloths is the long sleef shirt and the shorts

Men’s Pants Designs – Camouflage Line


Anton and I are busy working on men’s camouflage designs for pants. I started to draw my first design for this pants line what we are busy with, we would like to give it a military look and feel.

Anton is busy with the seams on the fabric.

Anton is busy with the seams.

This is the first design of the men’s pants, which is a militaristic design.

The pattern that we are going to use is the basic idea of the pants.

These pants my brother gave me when he was in South Africa, this was brought to the UK.

That fabric which lay on the pants is the fabric which we brought today which we are going to use for the pants.

Anton was working on the seams.

Seams what we are going to use.

Back side of the seam.

The seams on the pants which we like to put on our pants.

All the ideas in the portfolio book.

More stitches for the seams.

The backside of the stitches on the fabric.

Anton used a different tread.

Notes in the portfolio book.


Youtube what we watched:

Source:

http://302286163172854038.weebly.com/sketches.html

Long Pants for Men – Camouflage Line


Separate all pattern pieces. Copy the front pocket, the cargo pocket as well as the back patch pocket. Copy the side pocket pieces and join them together. Slash and spread the pockets for the V-box pleats as illustrated. Fold the pleats to equalize the seam lines. The back patch pocket consists of two pocket pieces. Slash and spread 1 cm for each pintuck on the front and back pattern. Fold the pintucks to equalize the seam lines. Copy the tool strap piece, slash and spread around double the strap depth for each cutting line. Mirror the waistband and gather with elastic to 1/2 the waist girth. Mark gathers. Blend all seam lines. Mark the grainlines.



Source:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1102784660/original-1970s-1950-pattern-jungle-green?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=mens+trouser+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-13-4

Russian Constructivism Fashion Around 1922

Constructivism was born around 1922 in Russia and this ideology was a proposal for “production art”. This was art with a social meaning and practical art.


Thank You – (A.G Visser)

Thank you for the love you gave
Thank you for the step for a step you walk with me
Sometimes will thoughts clash
You still stay my rock

Thank you support me through difficulties
Thank you for the laugh out of your stomach
Sometimes is my jokes weak
But you still laugh out of good faith

Thank you that you want to be with me
Thank you that you can read my ups and downs
Thank you that I can be myself with you
Thank you that I can trust your love

Thank you
Thank you
Thank you for you
Thank you for now


Movie Watched:

Release date: 7 February 2020 (Poland)
DirectorsTomasz MandesBarbara Białowąs
LRelease date: 7 February 2020 (Poland)
Directors: Tomasz Mandes, Barbara Białowąs
Languages: Polish; Italian; English
Screenplay by: Tomasz Klimala; Barbara Białowąs; Tomasz Mandes; Blanka Lipińska

The life of Laura, a simple sales director, changes when she takes a trip to Sicily but gets kidnapped by Massimo, a mafia member. Massimo keeps her hostage for 365 days to make her fall for him.



Music Listened to:

Sources:

https://www.russianfashionblog.com/index.php/2013/06/constructivismrussia-1920s/

The Soviet Brand in South Africa – Camouflage Line

I am busy studying a brand which is now for years in South Africa. They have clothing stores all over the country and have a very strong brand.

I had a look at the website and find indications that it is militaristic, but I need to be careful, because I am not sure if they associate themselves with the Soviet Union, if you look at the military side of the Soviet Union you will find a lot of camouflage clothing, wings that the pilots use on their uniforms.

So what I did was, to start playing with the idea, of creating, or designing my own fabric and fashion line for this specific brand. Our main theme is camo, and I would like to use these ideas for a clothing company like Soviet. Here is a link to their website and have a look. https://sovietdenim.com/

Panzergrenadier Hungary 1945 – pin by Paolo Marzioli

When I start to design I look first for elements that I can use for my study. I try to get so many ideas and information as I can to find what I think someone or me will like.
When you look at the army soldier drawing you see camo, and this image was of soldiers in 1949.
There are a few things that catch my eyes and the first one is the hat, with the piece of fabric around his ears, this is a bit too hot for South Africa. It can work if you use a not-to-warm fabric, but in areas like the Western Cape and Johannesburg, it can be very useful in the mornings when you are on your way to the gym or to work in winter.
The next thing that I am looking at is the collar, it looks if you can design a lot around with that specif kind of collar.
The bags around his chest is very interesting, and you can stitch fabric around on your shirt so that it looks like bags.

WWII Russian soldier
Published: Apr 27, 2010
by warman707
Cyrillic initial extended sans serif font with wings silhouettes. For military and sport logo, emblem and t-shirt design

Constructivist Art

One thing I learned at a very early beginning of my career is that if you touch politics and religion you immediately touch the art. These are three components that change in seconds and have a huge effect on a large scale on society.

I am studying now the Soviet Union war designs, I came across one word which is Constructivism art, a movement that started in 1922 by Aleksei Gan an artist. In his manifesto, he started with “UNCOMPROMISING WAR ON ART”.

During Russia’s post-Revolution transition, artists found their role in creating practical and industrial art to support the new Soviet state. In Constructivism, art was no longer for hedonistic pleasure but served a purpose within a fresh Communist society. Constructivist art began as a guiding light for the Russian people, carrying the hopes of many for a better life. 

For some, the goal behind this new method of artistic creation was a new modern way of expressing the dynamism of life in the modern, industrial world.

Constructivist art has a fondness for geometric forms, sparse composition, and industrial materials. Rulers and compasses could create simple forms, reflecting the decomposition of art and challenging established traditions. Constructivist artists used glass, wood, and metal in their constructions.

Soviet art propaganda poster. Strong diagonal construction is inspired by posters released in USSR during Lenin’s “New Economic Policy” – years 1921 – 1927. Each object can be used by an independent way. Airplanes are MIG fighter jets and weapons are AK-47’s. Also, we have some cruise missiles.

I am back at the SovietDenim brand in South Africa, if you look at the tornado’s backfire drawings, you will see that that specific element is been used by www.SovietDenim.com just flipped. Now I look at the time when this poster was being made and that was during 1922 -1927 in the time of constructivist art a movement which was designed by Aleksei Gan an artist. This poster you will see is been released in the USSR during Lenin’s “New Economic Policy”.

Rember this is all my own conclusions, I do not work for the company, I would like to design for them a clothing line with fabrics and clothes. The only contact I have with them is on Twitter.

As a South Africa designer, I ask myself, is this brand suitable for South Africa? We do not live in the USSR. The thing I wonder now is who created this brand. Was it a South African or a Russian, is the person or people who created the brand capitalists or communists. I mention in the blog that a good designer can understand his client in 5min. He needs to know exactly what the client wants. The next thing I said was, and that is also important is I worked 22 years for a boss and I gave him what he wants, that was my job. My job was not to study the clients that were his job. So what exactly is my job here? To design and to understand the trend. I also need to understand his idea and put it into a fashion design for his clothing line, and I need to have a deep insight into the brand of the business.

Below is the Sovietdenim Logo in South Africa.


My Conclusion,

What I did was my job, I have now clarity and can have enough confidence to walk in and go and see them. I now have an idea of where they come from. As a South African, I also understand their market. That is easy to understand that, by just visiting their website.


Please see below more designs of the constructivist art.


Teyashim (Four billy goats) (1922) by El Lissitzky; El Lissitzky, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Workers united through Factory Council by Seiwert (1922); Creator:Franz Seiwert, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Corner Counter-Relief by V. Tatlin, 1914; shakko, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
Proun (c. 1922-1923) by El Lissitzky; El Lissitzky, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Source:
https://co.pinterest.com/pin/822540319413665962/
https://www.deviantart.com/warman707/art/WWII-Russian-soldier-162110612
https://artincontext.org/constructivism-art/
https://depositphotos.com/vector-images/russian-military-tattoo.html

Male Figures for Design – Camouflage Line

I can’t sleep tonight so I stood up and start to see what I can find to do. It is very hot so it is difficult to sleep. I struggle to put the elastic into my shorts, but Anton said he will help me to do that, he is better than me, I learn from him. So it takes me more time and more effort to finish a piece of work as he does, but I work hard and I need to focus more.

I found these three male images on the net to help me to do my design. This is a very basic male figure drawing, with color and the correct skills it will be possible for me to give these figures nice designs. It comes to one point, that is to do it, and to work hard, actually two points.

Master Design 1a

I redraw the photostat which I have on a normal A4 paper and called it Master 1a. The reason for that is that I have still had two other drawings which I consider using.

I see a lot of Fashion Designers use the same figure drawing over and over in their designs, all that changes is the garments. I think most of the time you think of continuity which gives the design work, a very professional look. It won’t distract you if you have the same figure over and over. If you have too many different figures it gets too busy and it can distract the viewer who is looking at the designs.

I have now three master designs, and I called them Master 1a, Mater 1b, and Master 1c. I will at the end choose one of the designs for my male camouflage line. Then I will work on that, if I get a better sketch of a male figure I am going to use that one instead.

Master Design 1b
Master Design 1c

I actually preferred Master design 1a, because the figure looks straight in the eyes of the viewer, it is strong and for me, it shows stability. Master 1b and Master 1c are the same figure the one without clothes and the other one with clothes. I thought this figure will not work because the head is tilled and it is too busy and I see too many emotions in this sketch. The way he walks is different from Master 1a. I like Master 1b and Master 1c the most because it is different and the figure looks alive and it looks like if he is moving forward. So I think for what I want to use it for it can work. I now understand the importance of the choice of your figure drawing, and what I will look for in the future when I am going to draw figures. I think I will use a specific figure for jackets, a different one for shorts and a different one for trousers and shirts. I will continue to look for something that will work.

Now I think of maybe using a very artist drawing which shows a different angle of the figure, that can work, but I rather say that you need now to be very careful if you like to do that.

The Three Master Designs for the Figure Fashion Designs

What I did was that I redraw the three master designs in my Portfolio which I will keep basically forever, it is part of my recording of how did I start to find my ideas and this is the beginning of LAVI’s Fashion designs. I put all the master designs on one paper because I can save space and I don’t need one image on an A2 page, I easily fit three images (the master designs) on the A2 paper/portfolio. When you turn the paper on the other side, I left it blank so that I can put it underneath the light box and I can easily redraw it again. So the basic master design will always stay the same.

The image above is the photostats that I work from. I also put it in my portfolio so that I can always look at it again, and keep it for my recoding, where I started with the idea.

This A4 pencil sketches I redraw from the photostats and it is actually my master but, I don’t want to just glue it in the portfolio and redraw it from that, instead, I redraw it on an official page of my portfolio and then I keep the backside of the page open so that I can easily redraw the figures from the Master in the portfolio.